I-CAR Gold Class  ·  ASE Certified  ·  Porsche Certified
Certified Collision & Auto Body

Auto Paint Repair and Factory Color Match

Podium Body Works repairs paint at both shops, Round Rock and Liberty Hill: scratches, chips, and full panels, matched to your factory color by paint code and camera formula, blended into the panels beside it, and baked in a downdraft booth. The repair reads as one factory surface, or we haven’t finished.
A painter checking a sprayed test card against a fender at Podium Body Works in Round Rock, Texas
I-CAR
Gold Class
Certified
ASE
Certified
Technicians
Porsche Certified
Liberty Hill
2
Locations North
of Austin
A technician inspecting scratches and chips on a panel at Podium Body Works in Round Rock, Texas
What we fix

What paint damage can be repaired?

Almost all of it: key scratches, rock chips, scuffed clear coat, faded panels, and collision damage that’s already been repaired straight and needs its finish back. Depth decides the method. Damage living in the clear coat may only need correction; anything through the color or down to primer or metal needs real paint. Photos usually tell us which yours is before you drive anywhere.

Color match

How do you match factory color?

We start with your factory paint code, and we don’t trust it blindly. Paint fades, factories vary batches, so the code’s formula gets sprayed on a test card and checked against your actual car first. When the card and the car disagree, a camera reads your paint and builds a corrected formula from a database of real-world mixes. Match confirmed, then paint happens. That test-card habit is the difference between a match and an “almost.”

A painter blending fresh paint into an adjacent panel at Podium Body Works in Round Rock, Texas
Blending

Why does blending the next panel matter?

Because a repaired panel painted in isolation announces itself at every angle the sun finds. Blending feathers the new color into the neighboring panels, so the transition sits where no eye or light can catch it. It’s more work and more material, and it’s why our paint work doesn’t have that two-tone-in-sunlight look you’ve seen on cut-rate resprays.

Modern cars raise the stakes: on a laser-welded roof there’s no seam to stop at, so doing it right means painting the full run, and we do.

The cure

How is fresh paint cured?

In a booth that bakes past 140 degrees, which releases gases and hardens the finish enough to drive the same week. Full cure still takes up to six weeks, and that schedule matters for what comes next: freshly painted panels wait out that cure before PPF or film goes over them, while untouched factory paint needs no wait at all. We plan protection work around that timeline with you so nothing bubbles or peels later.

Aftercare

How should I care for new paint?

Stay out of brush car washes, first and always. Those brushes scratch cured paint on a good day, and on paint still finishing its cure they’ll write themselves into the finish permanently. Hand wash or touchless for the first six weeks, no wax during cure, and after that treat it like the factory finish it now matches. If you want the shine locked in long term, ceramic coating picks up exactly where the cure ends.

Questions

Frequently asked questions

It depends on depth and panel count; a bumper respray is the common case. The photo estimate prices your exact damage free.
Yes. Code first, sprayed test card second, camera-built formula when needed. We confirm the match before painting the car.
We bake at over 140 degrees so you can drive it, but full cure runs up to six weeks. Film and coatings wait for it; driving doesn’t.
Skip brush washes for the first weeks, and honestly forever. Hand wash or touchless protects any paint, new or old.
Yes, and on a front-end repair we’ll offer to do the chips while the panel is already in paint, the cheapest they’ll ever be to fix.

Get Your Free Estimate

Send a few photos and we will get you a clear, honest estimate. Certified, insurer-independent, and accountable for the work.